Field notes
History
Yuan Mei, Suiyuan shidan (随园食单), 1792, 点心单: "糊面摊开,裹肉为馅蒸之… 余到广东,吃官司镇台颠不棱,甚佳。中用肉皮煨膏为馅,故觉软美". A dated steamed meat dumpling with an aspic-enriched filling, a precursor of the soup-filling technique. Some writers read the unusual name as a transliteration of a foreign word. This is not verified.
